languid yet precise, yuhan wang explores the language of deshabille in her subtly nuanced collection at fashion east.
“people always have a curiosity about what happens ‘behind the curtain’ and i see that as a metaphor about the body, the way we dress and the story behind it. the dialogue between a woman and her self and the way she appears is private - it is her inner universe expressed in the outside world,” says wang who expands on the theme of her central st martins m.a. collection entitled: ‘women indoors.’
“i cut the garments in a western way but the aesthetics are intrinsically asian, from the way i see the world,” explains wang of the east west confluences in her bias cut, flounced light satin silk and semi sheer print jersey dresses. shapes with slender sleeves, drapes and gentle flurries shimmy down the body fastened with tiny buttons and ribbon tab fastenings. In some designs, areas of the skin are revealed at the midriff and the thigh as if the fabric has been gently prized apart. shades of primrose yellow and powder pink, palest blue and eau de nil suggest delicacy while a chrysanthemum flower pattern (hand drawn by wang) speaks of optimism and joy.
wang draws on period portraits of regency women as well as on the vernacular of chinese dress. giant cartwheel hats made from translucent jersey and wire frame the face like soft sculptures while hybrid silk glove/shawls and suggest a genteel femininity. hand crafted accessories including gold metal leaf brooches that scatter across the body and ear cuffs and necklaces.
“softness is power – we don’t need to dress like men,” asserts yuhan wang who is presenting her second collection
on the fashion east platform. wang’s delicate designs are fashioned in silk satins, in lace, velvet and tulle to ripple and flounce around the female form. deceptively simple sheath and tea dresses are given dimension and tension
with artfully placed ruches and gathers that dance across the body. “ I think of it as the push and pull we experience as women. the constant dialogue between our inner and outer worlds,” says wang who fuses east and west aesthetics in her work.
the palette of cornflower blue, lilac, pea green, lilac and primrose yellow is informed by watercolour illustrations of victorian women. wang took to painting herself to create the impressionistic rose flower print for a pretty silk satin midi dress. lace ribbons, crochet flowers and fabric covered guillotine toed shoes lend a dainty, whimsical air to the
“i prefer ‘slow.’ i like to think and convey feelings in a nuanced way. i lean to beauty with weirdness, softness,
delicacy and sensibility,” says wang.